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A Guide to Rowan Berries: Jelly, Wine and Wildlife

Every autumn, usually around mid-September, the rowans in my local woods turn heavy with clusters of bright orange-red berries. They are among the most generous wild fruits in Britain. Eaten raw they are bitter and can upset the stomach; cooked, they make a superb jelly and a country wine with real character. The trick is knowing when to pick, how much to take, and how much to leave for the birds that depend on them.

Finding and Identifying Rowan

Rowan, or mountain ash, is a small native tree found in woods, hedgerows, upland scrub, parks and streets across Britain. Look for smooth silvery-grey bark, leaves made up of five to eight pairs of serrated leaflets with grey-green undersides, and dense flat-topped clusters of scarlet berries, each about the size of a pea and marked with a small star-shaped scar. The leaves turn red in autumn, making the tree easy to spot from a distance.

Berries on a conifer with needle-like leaves are yew, which is dangerously poisonous. Rowan leaves are unmistakable, so check them before you pick anything.

When and How to Harvest

Berries ripen from late August in the south and can hang on into November in the north. For jelly, pick them fully coloured but still firm. The old advice to wait for the first frost does no harm, but the important change happens in the pan, not on the tree.

  • Snip whole clusters with scissors rather than stripping berries one at a time.
  • Avoid trees beside busy roads, or in gardens that may have been sprayed.
  • Take no more than a third of the crop from any tree, and leave the topmost and outermost clusters, which birds reach most easily.
  • Skip any tree carrying a light crop.
  • Carry a basket or paper bag; berries sweat and mould in plastic.

In England and Wales, picking fruit or foliage for personal use on private land is allowed under the Theft Act 1968, provided you are not digging up plants or picking to sell. Scotland's access rights are broader. On private ground, always ask first.

Preparing the Berries

The most important thing to know about rowan is that the berries contain parasorbic acid, which causes nausea and stomach cramps. Cooking converts it into harmless sorbic acid, so rowan is never eaten raw. Strip the berries from their stalks with a fork, rinse them, and discard any that are brown or shrivelled. There is no need to top and tail them; you will strain the cooked fruit anyway.

Rowan Jelly

Rowan berries are low in pectin and fiercely tart, so the classic method pairs them with sharp apples or crab apples, which supply both.

  • 1 kg rowan berries
  • 1 kg crab apples or Bramleys, roughly chopped, skins and cores included
  • Water to cover
  • Sugar — roughly 450 g per 600 ml of juice
  • Juice of one lemon

Put the fruit in a large pan with just enough water to come to the surface. Simmer gently for 45 minutes until soft and pulpy, then tip everything into a scalded jelly bag or a double layer of muslin and leave it to drip overnight. Resist squeezing the bag, however tempted you are, or the jelly will be cloudy.

Measure the juice, add the lemon juice, and warm it in a preserving pan. Add 450 g of sugar for every 600 ml of juice and stir over a low heat until dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil and test for a set after eight minutes: a teaspoonful on a cold saucer should wrinkle when you push it with a finger. Pot into sterilised jars while hot. The flavour is sharp, clean and faintly bitter, and it is excellent with game, lamb or a strong cheese.

Rowan Wine and Liqueur

Rowan wine is one of the great British country wines: pale amber, dry, with a bitter finish that softens after a year in the bottle.

  • 1.5 kg ripe rowan berries
  • 1 kg sugar
  • 4.5 litres water
  • Juice of two lemons
  • 1 tsp yeast nutrient
  • A cup of strong cold tea, for tannin
  • Wine yeast

Pour boiling water over the crushed berries and leave to cool, then add everything else. Ferment in a covered bucket for five days, stirring daily, then strain into a demijohn and fit an airlock. Rack every two months and bottle when clear.

For something quicker, a rowan liqueur takes ten minutes: half-fill a jar with berries, add a strip of orange peel and a few cloves, cover with vodka or gin, and leave for two months. Strain, sweeten with sugar syrup to taste, and bottle. A spoonful in a hip flask on a cold walk is a fine thing.

Leaving Plenty for Wildlife

Rowan berries are one of the most important winter foods for British birds. Redwings and fieldfares arrive from Scandinavia in October and strip rowans almost as soon as they land, while waxwings — erratic winter visitors from the north — will clear a suburban tree in an afternoon. Blackbirds, song thrushes, mistle thrushes and even red squirrels rely on the crop too.

This is why a good forager takes a third and leaves the rest. Pick from the lower and middle branches and leave the crown untouched. Never strip a tree, and never visit the same one twice in a season. If the crop is thin, walk on and find another. There is always another tree, another year, and a jelly to be made from whatever you carried home.

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5 Comments

  1. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply
    • John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

      I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

      Reply
      • Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

        I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

        Reply
  2. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply

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